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Zimbabwe: Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls needs little introduction. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the seven natural wonders of the world, this immense cataract – the world’s largest curtain of falling water – is, understandably, Zimbabwe’s greatest tourist attraction. For birders, it also offers rich pickings. The key is habitat variety. While the surrounding region is characterised by mopane woodland – in itself, home to a rich community of birds – the falls themselves have also created several more localised habitats that harbour several rare and/or elusive species hard to find elsewhere in the Kavango-Zambezi TFCA.

First, there’s the ‘rainforest’. Visitors entering the small Victoria Falls National Park to view the falls will find a lush cathedral of greenery, sustained by the year-round spray from the cataract. While this is not a true tropical rainforest, the profusion of fruiting trees draws noisy Trumpeter Hornbills and spectacular Schalow’s Turacos, while Olive Woodpeckers comb the tree trunks, and the likes of Collared Palm Thrush and Bearded Scrub-robin hop through the understorey. Any flock of Blue Waxbills may hold Brown Firefinches.

Immediately downstream from the falls, the Zambezi has carved out the dramatic Batoka Gorge. Several species of falcon breed on the cliffs above its thundering white waters, including Peregrine, Lanner and the much sought-after Taita Falcon. Black Stork and Verreaux’s Eagle are among the larger birds you might also spy, while African Black Swifts zoom through the air below the famous bridge.

Then there’s the Zambezi River itself. Any boat cruise upstream of the falls will reveal a plethora of waterbirds, including Goliath Heron, Long-toed Plover, White-fronted Bee-eater and the near-ubiquitous African Fish Eagle. From August to December, you might also spot African Skimmers plying the surface and Rock Pratincoles perched on low rocks. Quieter backwaters hold elusive species such as Half-collared Kingfisher, White-backed Night-heron and African Finfoot – all sometimes seen from riverbank lodges.

Continuing west upstream, you enter Zambezi National Park, home to elephant, buffalo and other big game. Here, game drives may encounter such mopane woodland specials as Barred Owlet and Bradfield’s Hornbill, while Western Banded Snake-eagle is sometimes located by its raucous call. The park boasts 40km of river frontage, which may be explored from land or by boat trips upriver. Bat Hawk has been recorded here, while the riparian forest along the riverbank is always worth checking for a rare Pel’s Fishing Owl.

The abundant accommodation and tourist activities at Victoria Falls – including boat cruises, kayaking, white-water rafting, viewing platforms and game drives – means that all these habitats are easily accessible. But any visitor will also find rich birdlife throughout the area, whether in town or around their hotel. And, birder or not, the daily ‘Vulture Culture’ feeding experience at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge offers a spectacular opportunity to view these threatened raptors up close and learn more about their conservation.

Mike Unwin White-fronted bee eater 2